Heat pump repair in Spokane, both modes working.
Frozen outdoor unit, stuck in one mode, or short-cycling? Get matched with a licensed Spokane heat-pump tech who knows how these systems behave in our climate.
Heat pumps do double duty, so when one fails you can lose both heating and cooling at once.
Reversing-valve faults, low charge, a stuck defrost cycle, or a failing capacitor are all common. A licensed local tech diagnoses the real cause, quotes it upfront, and restores both modes — often the same day.
- Won’t switch between heating and cooling
- Outdoor unit iced over or frozen
- Running constantly but not keeping up
- Short-cycling or tripping the breaker
Heat pump faults, and which ones actually matter.
A heat pump is an air conditioner that can run backwards, which is why it can heat and cool from one machine — and why it has a few failure modes no other system has.
It only does one of the two jobs. Cooling fine but not heating, or the reverse, points squarely at the reversing valve or the solenoid that shifts it. That valve is the part that flips the system between modes, and when it sticks you lose exactly one direction while everything else keeps working normally. It is a distinctive symptom and a genuine diagnosis rather than a guess. If your unit is heating fine but has stopped cooling, the fault is usually on the AC-only side of the system — capacitor, contactor, or a low refrigerant charge — and the checks and typical repair prices on our Spokane AC repair page apply to a heat pump in cooling mode exactly the same way.
The outdoor unit is covered in ice. Some frost in cold weather is completely normal — the unit periodically runs a defrost cycle to clear it, and briefly blowing cool air indoors during that cycle is by design, not a fault. What is not normal is ice that never clears, or a solid casing of it. That means the defrost control, its sensor, or the reversing valve is not doing its job, and running the system that way risks damage. Never chip ice off with anything sharp; the coil fins and refrigerant lines behind them puncture easily.
Your electricity bill jumped without the weather changing. This is the quiet, expensive one. Nearly every heat pump has backup electric heat for the coldest days. If the heat pump itself is underperforming — low charge, a defrost fault, a failing outdoor fan — that backup takes over and holds the house at temperature, so nothing feels obviously broken. The only visible symptom is the bill, because resistance heat costs far more to run than the heat pump it replaced. If your thermostat shows auxiliary or emergency heat running in mild weather, something is wrong.
It struggles specifically on the coldest nights. Heat pumps lose output as the outdoor temperature drops, which is normal physics rather than a defect. It becomes a real problem when the unit was sized against milder assumptions than the site actually sees — a live issue north of Spokane, where Deer Park runs several degrees colder overnight than the city does. The fix there is correctly sized backup heat, not a bigger heat pump.
Because a heat pump works year-round instead of sitting idle for half the year, small faults compound faster than they would on a furnace-and-AC pair. A system that is limping rarely announces it — it just quietly runs on backup heat and bills you for the difference.
On a genuine no-heat night when the outdoor unit stops responding entirely, our 24/7 emergency HVAC dispatch covers exactly that — round-the-clock response for cold-snap failures. And because heat-pump economics shift sharply with the local electric rate and cold-night sizing, our Spokane County service areas page notes which nearby towns actually favor a heat pump over a straight furnace-and-AC pair.
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Questions homeowners ask.
Why is my heat pump heating but not cooling?+
Losing exactly one mode almost always points to the reversing valve or its solenoid — the component that switches the system between heating and cooling. It is a specific, identifiable fault rather than a general breakdown.
Is ice on my heat pump normal?+
A light frost in cold weather is normal, and the unit runs a defrost cycle to clear it. Ice that never clears, or a thick casing of it, is not normal and usually means a defrost sensor or control fault. Do not chip it off — the coil punctures easily.
Why is my power bill so high with a heat pump?+
Usually because the backup electric heat is doing work the heat pump should be doing. That happens when the heat pump is low on charge, stuck in defrost, or has a failing fan. If your thermostat shows auxiliary or emergency heat in mild weather, book a diagnosis — the repair often pays for itself over a winter.
Do heat pumps work in Spokane winters?+
Yes, and modern cold-climate models perform far better at low temperatures than older ones. Output does drop as it gets colder, so the backup heat needs to be sized properly — especially in the colder spots north of the city.
How fast can someone come out for heat pump repair in Spokane?+
Same-day service is usually available across Spokane and the nearby suburbs, with 24/7 dispatch for no-heat and no-cool emergencies.
Will I know the price before any work starts?+
Yes. You get a clear, upfront quote before anyone begins — no surprise charges on the invoice, and no work done without your OK.
Are the technicians licensed and insured?+
Check for yourself before any work starts — we pass your details to a local HVAC company, we don’t employ their technicians, so their paperwork is theirs to prove and not ours to promise. Washington L&I lets you look up any contractor’s license and insurance free in about a minute, and a company worth hiring will hand you their license number without being asked.
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